Introducing... T. Lipop

Tom Lipop is a creative force who specialises in progressive, technical cutting techniques, luxurious fabrics and technology that combine ti bring minimalism to the fore all with a considered, yet veiled, complexity for his label, T. Lipop. Having shown previously at Vauxhall Fashion Scout, the AW12 season welcomed the designer as part of the Fashion East installations. Housed in one of the grande wings of Somerset House, T. Lipop presented a reimagined wardrobe of military staples fit for exploration of the Great British winter. Despite the models frosted tousled hair and eyebrows suggesting otherwise, it was quite simply one of the hottest collections of the season. As the eyebrows thawed, I thought it high time to pay Lipop a visit at his East London based studio to learn more about the label and the latest collection.

Following graduation, Lipop held senior design positions at House of Holland, Griffin and Nathan Jenden, all after appearing on Sky One's Project Catwalk. "I graduated from Bournemouth in June and the following month I was involved in the process of Project Catwalk. It was great for contacts and an interesting experience but if you compare it to Project Runway, the budget just isn't there and whereas a number of the contestants on that version are rich and famous, many of us are struggling in East London. However, subsequently I worked at House of Holland for a year, freelanced with Griffin and learnt a great deal before moving to Nathan Jenden where I stayed for three seasons as senior tailor and cutter." Building on this experience, Lipop along with his business partner Esser felt the time was right to go it alone. "We just wanted to do something that we thought was a bit different from anything out there, trying to reinvent the cutting side."

Now, we've often remarked on the demands and difficulties facing emerging designers who launch their own line. Beyond the stresses of design, the strains of the business often take their toll on the enthusiasm and sanity of the talents. With Esser's commercial head, Tom can share the load and in fellow Project Catwalk contestant and close friend Ross Hancock, he found someone to bounce off ideas and collaborate with when it came to pattern cutting and finishing each collection. On this platform the label could thrive.

"We met whilst I was studying at Bournemouth. Esser had just moved to England to learn English and his tutor pushed him my way because I needed a tenant. We eventually became friends and when he finished his Masters, he wanted to invest in something, not necessarily fashion, but it was just the right time for us. We've been together for four years now and it feels like a proper relationship. We both live here at the studio so we live and breathe the label. He handles the business side whereas as I'm the creative one and it means I can concentrate on that side of the label - it's just too much otherwise because we do everything in house." Tom on Esser.

"Basically Ross has worked with me for the last three seasons. Once I have designed the collection Ross comes in, consults and helps with the pattern cutting. We work completely together on this bouncing ideas off one another about how best to cut in the style we have developed, not one of us being technically more creative than the other. We have developed the idea of this style of cut together and it has since become a real signature of the label." Tom on Ross.

Three seasons in and the teamwork is obviously paying dividends. As a label, T. Lipop now knows what it wants and how it wants to evolve. The label has learnt on the job but have taken advantage of the 'book of knowledge' that is the Centre for Fashion Enterprise.  "The CFE have been so helpful. Their mentoring meetings have helped us so much. Even as recently as two seasons ago, we weren't one hundred per cent certain on the direction we were taking,  it was a time for us to  explore but now we know precisely where we want to take it and what we want to do. For us, it is all about the cutting and finish to help make garments that are lasting. However, we are also concerned with keeping the price down to help us break in to the market because it is so difficult otherwise. The price point is a real prohibitive factor for emerging British designers. The price to manufacture in London and even the rest of the UK is outrageous. Our cheapest part is actually our tailoring because we've found a great company in Norwich who have bought a factory in Mauritius and its actually been cheaper to move their staff and ship everything out there and then bring it back - it's still English at heart."

Given the timing of my visit to the studio in late April, samples of the AW12 collection were scattered throughout the studio but Lipop's mind had moved on to SS13. I used this opportunity to question the design talent on his creative process. "It's almost a backwards process compared to most. I don't start the season with a clear theme and start designing. I always design before I reference. I just sit down and start sketching what I want and what looks I want to see, once I have this clearly in my mind I begin back referencing finishes and detailing. For example, last season had quite a military and once I had realised that I had reworked quite classic staples, like the duffle coat, parka and flight jacket, I then referenced it back to it whilst bringing it forward. From the cutting side for AW12, we tried to remove unnecessary seams, our suits don't have darting but they've still kept their shape. The Arctic parka for example, is cut in two pieces, there is a lot of technical structure and a great deal of thought and research in what we try and do. It's always rooted in wearable clothing rather than being too conceptual or trend led." The result is a considered collection that breathes fresh life into traditional shapes and familiar silhouettes through the craftsmanship of the designer and his team...

Look book shots (supplied by T. Lipop) alongside our own detail and studio shots.

With a trio of accomplished and well crafted opening collections, I'm going to be keeping a keen eye on the development of T. Lipop. The future looks promising and Lipop himself is optimistic... "We have five stockists and we are hoping to secure a couple more before the books close. The main thing for us this season was keeping our existing stockists which we've done because the market is extremely tough. I'm hoping that London Collections Men opens a few more eyes and doors. For me, the London crew are so different from what other designers are doing but the recognition just isn't there at the moment. It is so much more diverse than other fashion capitals. We used to be the epicentre and I hope it returns to that." Here's to London Collections Men shining the spotlight on the capital's menswear design talent.